Bin 71
237 Columbus Avenue (at 71st Street), New York, NY 10023
212-362-5466
Tucked among the thriving shops and restaurants on busy Columbus Avenue on the Upper West Side of Manhattan is a cozy nook you might miss if you walk at the pace of most New Yorkers; Bin 71 is easier to find in warm weather when outdoor seating is available. During the winter, the neighborhood fans might be the only customers — this is a good thing because there is barely room even for this small crowd. The U-shaped, marble bar seats no more than 15 or 16. Scattered to the side might be room for another 10 to 12. The mirrored wall and the French doors psych you into believing the space is larger than it is.
If you get to Bin 71 and are lucky enough to find a seat or two together, it is worth the aggravation. More than 100 French, American, Italian, and Spanish wines are available by the bottle and over 30 by the glass. Beer guzzlers will love the options (I love the names) — Long Island’s Blue Point Hoptical Illusion Pale Ale, Oregon’s Rogue Dead Guy Ale, and Young’s Oatmeal Stout from England. The prices are decent, and the pours healthy.
Owner Lawrence Bondulich snatched his chef father away from Greenwich Village’s Bondini. In what must be an incredibly tiny kitchen, Papa Al creates all manner of tapas and paninis, in addition to hefty and yummy brunches. The salads and frittata of the day never disappoint, and a favorite is the meatballs in white wine, bay leaves and lemon. The country stew with white beans and Italian sausages can be great fare, particularly in this cold weather. But don’t waste your money on the cheese plates; while delicious, the tiny bites won’t feed an anorexic mouse.
Reviews are mixed about the service. We had no such problems and great conversation with a bartender during a couple of visits. The next time, we were mostly ignored (and trust me, we’re great tippers) while the two new bartenders were too engrossed in their own personal discussion.
Tiny spaces make for great conversation as well as opportunities to meet new folks, and Bin 71 is perfect for this activity. We met a very nice couple and a very entertaining young woman. But don’t be surprised if you can’t get in — just try it again.
by Jane Hruska
[Photo by Alison MacGregor]
