I’m a peaceful man – there are few things in this world that I can absolutely say I hate. There are irritations, annoyances, even occasional peeves, but I reserve the white-hot venomous term “hate” for only the most bloody of vexations. And although it may seem petty and simple, there’s one definite: sugar in tomato sauces of any kind. Refined white sugar, raw sugar, molasses brown sugar, cane sugar, I don’t care. It doesn’t belong near a decent tomato sauce. Sorry, Mom.
Now, that being said, my favorite of Italian of sauces, Bolognese, is not normally heavy on the tomatoes. Depending on taste, tradition and argument, it can contain only a few hints of redness to contrast the savor of beef (or pork) or it can be nearly as full as your classic American Marinara. Classically speaking, a Bolognese is a rich meat sauce, usually served over pasta – it typically includes a soffrito (that’s basically a mirepoix, celery, carrots and onion as base) but has as many variations as there are cooks. I prefer mine piquant and hearty, full of good balsamic vinegar, and served with a piece of fine crusty bread.
Ingredients:
1 ½ lbs ground beef
1 large yellow onion (sliced thickly)
6 large garlic cloves (coarsely chopped)
1 ½ tsp fresh thyme (or 1 tbsp dried)
2 tsp fresh oregano ( 2 tbsp dried)
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper to taste
1 14 oz can chopped tomatoes (or 4 large roma tomatoes, peeled and seeded)
1 32 oz can tomato puree (or you can peel, de-seed and mill the equivalent)
½ cup balsamic vinegar
In a large saucepot, heat 1 tbsp of olive oil on medium until loose. Add onion and garlic and cook down until translucent. You don’t want a lot of a browning on this one – add the herbs, S&P and then the beef. Brown carefully, stirring the meat and onions together. Once the meat is fully cooked, add tomatoes and puree and stir. Keep it on medium until the sauce begins to simmer and then reduce to low – tomatoes burn easily and it’s impossible to get the taste out. Finish sauce with vinegar, stir and reduce for 30 minutes to two hours, depending on your patience/hunger. Serve with pasta, bread and red wine, just like you know you should.
by Nathan Kamal
