1412 S. Congress Ave.
Austin, TX 78704
512.447.7688
www.guerostacobar.com
The classic Merriam-Webster defines a taco as:
n: a usually fried tortilla that is folded or rolled and stuffed with a mixture (as of seasoned meat, cheese, and lettuce).
In other words: perfection.
On a Saturday excursion, I met up with a few friends at Guero’s Taco Bar in the south Austin neighborhood of South Congress Avenue (or SoCo, for the ultra-uber-hip). This fragrant taco and salsa haven is housed in an historic feed and seed building. While waiting for our table we hit up the bar, whose tender was a bald man with black, painted fingernails and dangling, show-stopping earrings large enough to put Aretha Franklin’s big bow hat to shame.
But boy, could he serve up a mean cerveza. Our round of Coronas were served biting cold with a lime and small glass on the side, just the way it’s done in interior Mexico. The combination of beer and music from the scrappy live band put a shit-happy grin on the face of this little Austinite. Once seated at our table, we were disheartened to see a small sign, imploring patrons to not deface the walls of their celebrated building; unfortunate, but a sign of the times. At any rate, we were digging the exposed brick walls and open kitchen. The outdoor seating is glorious for a sunny day as well. In typical Austin fashion, there were several athletic looking dogs expectantly sitting at their people’s feet, waiting for that possible stray morsel of tamale. Well, they’re so damn sporty looking; it would not surprise me if those dogs were waiting for a shot of wheatgrass.
Two signatures of Guero’s is their salsa bar and corn tortillas. The DIY salsa bars provide a veritable kaleidoscope of greens and reds, from fresh cilantro, punchy tomatoes, and nippy jalapeños all made into some great salsa verde and pico de gallo. The only drawback is the tragically small ramekins. That’s right: not even cups here, folks. The three of us managed to create a small fleet of white ramekins that covered at least 89% of our table surface area. No elbow room? A small price to pay for the right dips.
I ordered up the vegetarian enchilada dish and my buddies split shrimp fajitas. For the record: between the three of us, we had enough food to feed five or six people. Hundred, I mean. Everything is bigger in Texas, so to-go boxes all around. My enchiladas were stuffed to bursting with grilled veggies and cheese, with a hearty side of rice and beans to boot. I was feeling pretty damn good about my choice to top the enchiladas with fresca sauce: a creamy, avocado-sour cream combo.
Perhaps the only drawback to Guero’s is the noise level. The combination of the indoor band, open kitchen, and packed-in tables can frequently leave you shouting in your seat. As a positive alternative, part of Guero’s is The Garden. Just outside the restaurant’s brick walls, this cozy outdoor space offers a small bar and live music on Sundays and First Thursdays.
I managed to trade a few bites with my friends, and have to say: the hot, handmade corn tortillas definitely earn their street cred. In fact, with the laid-back vibe, attentive staff, live music, and bang for your buck, I would say Guero’s Taco Bar is definitely living up to its reputation.
by Phyllis Anastasia Gasper
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