386 Flatbush Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11201
718-852-5257
www.juniorscheesecake.com
I am not sure when my passion toward cheesecake, that dreamy concoction of creamy cheeses merged with sugar, vanilla and eggs, first developed. The ingredients are few, though the process offers a challenge toward minimal cracking and consistent thickness. This is a cake that climbs into mouths and lies on a tongue treating it like a diving board. The flavor lingers, weighing down each taste bud until it must give in as a giant splash of thick sweetness swims toward digestion.
When I used to live in Brooklyn, I learned I was just several blocks away from the haven of cheesecake manufacturers. Harry Rosen founded Junior's in 1950 and the original recipe remains decades later. Junior's has since expanded into two other locations in New York: Grand Central Station, and their Times Square restaurant off West 45th Street. But the original is here, right off Flatbush in Brooklyn.
On a cold, brisk day in New York, the wind seemed to push me toward a specific direction. Suddenly, the sign appeared like a neon cloud climbing down from the sky; years had passed since moving from New York to Colorado and I was now back for a visit. My girlfriend decided to surprise me with my favorite treat at this place I always longed to go.
My excitement entered into through the door a few seconds before I did. My eyes took in the sights of giant cheesecakes and individual slices to choose from, and the décor that appeared frozen from the beginning. We ordered a slice of chocolate swirl cheesecake to share. In my younger days, I would have been able to finish off an entire slice by myself. In fact, my first job at a bakery yielded a mouthwatering purchase of a whole marble cheesecake, shared by a co-worker. We devoured it in one sitting, splitting it in half. I imagine doing that now might yield a stomachache lasting at least a week.
To purchase a full cheesecake at Junior's the cost averages at $16 for a 6" regular, $26 for a 7" medium, $35 for an 8" large, and $60 for a 10" restaurant sized cake. Some flavors to choose from include raspberry swirl, chocolate mousse, apple crumb, black forest, carrot cake and, of course, NY style plain cheesecake. One slice came to $6.25. We sat down at a tiny table toward the back and I stared its thickness. It was a long-awaited convergence between this dairy explosion and me. I took several deep breaths and slowly relaxed my widened eyes. The layers were pronounced: crust, creamy chocolate, vanilla, and decorative swirled top covering it like a layer of protective skin made of cheese flesh.
The taste was rich and offered a consistent flavor from start to finish. The aftertaste generated a mild buttery and creamy quality. However, disappointment arose in the crust. What defines a really good cheesecake? With all the various desserts to choose from, I prefer no amalgamation when dealing with cheesecake. Though it can be interesting to impregnate a cheesecake with regular, fluffy cake alternating layers, it becomes a different experience. I was looking for undisputed cheese with no interruptions. This crust let me down with its spongy chocolate mass. It was not crumbly like a pastry. It was a severe disruption to cheesecake perfection.
Crust aside, Junior's cheesecake offers a thick and creamy texture and reveals no skimping on the richest of cheeses. They offer full meals from breakfast to dinner, but they will always be known for their dessert.
by Aimee Herman