1216 Spruce Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
(215) 985-2962
www.mercatobyob.com
The woman at the table to our right had just come back from visiting her daughter in San Diego (the weather was gorgeous), and the couple to our left were clearly on a first date (Prediction? One and done.). We never asked them these things, but at the elbow-to-elbow Mercato, it's unavoidable that you'll learn more than you ever thought you'd know about your fellow diners.
Situated on the corner of Camac and Spruce, Mercato is a cozy cash-only BYOB that cranks out tasty, upscale Italian dishes in a space that could just as easily be in New York's East Village. It's got downtown charm, with white walls, a tin ceiling, vintage-y looking chandeliers, and un-clothed wooden tables. On all three occasions I've eaten there, no matter what the timing, the wait has been 30-45 minutes (they don't take reservations). The hostess - always decked out in hipster finery - will take your cell number and give a call when your seats are ready, and there are several area bars where you can cool your heels while you wait. As my friends and I finished our prosecco at Tria on our last visit, my phone rang and we made our way back.
We started by splitting a few appetizers, including a tangy salad of bitter radicchio, creamy butter beans, and wild mushrooms topped off with a tart Chianti vinegar and rich olive oil. The mussels and clams, steamed in white wine and adorned with chunks of chorizo, and the large, smoky grilled artichoke with a creamy dipping sauce were fantastic as well.
As our appetizers were being cleared, the first-date couple next to us was seated, and we spent the rest of the evening trying to stealthily listen into their extremely awkward conversation (hey, we've all been there) while pretending to be having one of our own. By the time our pasta came out (we split an order of the supremely decadent short rib ragu over ricotta gnocchi), we'd learned that she was a recent Brown graduate and that he had a twin.
When our entrees appeared a little while later, they'd moved past childhood nicknames and on to favorite movies. I cringed a little when she said she loved Maid in Manhattan, but perked up when I bit into one of the plump pan-seared diver scallops on my plate. Sitting on a bed of mushroom and pea risotto and drizzled with truffle oil, it was creamy goodness. My friends have a tradition of sharing our meals, so after eating just one scallop (I could have eaten them all), I passed my plate to the left and dug into the parmesan-crusted veal cutlets that were coming in from my right. They were a little overly salty and somewhat greasy, but nice and tender. Finally, I passed that along to sample the monkfish with an intense balsamic reduction. To get our greens, we also split an order of addictive, saucy broccoli rabe studded with little meatballs and sausage.
Mercato has a great selection of cheeses, along with cured meats and artisan olive oils that allows you to mix and match and create your own pre- or post-dinner treat. We decided to forgo a cheese plate in favor of the bittersweet molten chocolate cake (excellent) and warm apple ricotta cake (a little dry) as we finished our wine.
By this time, the first date couple was long gone. They'd also foregone cheese, as well as dessert, in favor of an awkward, non-committal goodbye ("We should get together again, I'll Facebook you."). As we discussed whether or not we'd give it another go had it been one of us on the date, the hostess sat two middle-aged women in their place, and we decided it was time to head out. Until, that is, one of them inquired of the other "So, tell me the whole story. When did you find out he was cheating on you, exactly?" and we unanimously agreed that another cappuccino was in order. Elbow room might be tight, but Mercato is a great Center City option for casual yet elegant Italian fare and, if you're lucky, a good story, too.
by Tara Pierson Hoey
[Photos: Aubrey Mozino]