440 West 2nd Street
Austin, TX 78731
512.236.8020
www.malagaaustin.com
I was definitely one of those strange kids that really enjoyed my Christmas stocking. Sure, I too waited until the clock struck a decent hour on December 25th -usually around 5:50 am- to team up with my siblings and assault my parents into letting us open presents. But what I secretly loved was that giant red felt stocking, bursting with tiny goodies. While everyone else tore into giant boxes I would calmly, joyfully, lay out all my newest acquisitions: Littlest Pet Shop toys, Dr. Pepper flavored Lip Smackers and the greatest of all, the slap bracelet.
Perhaps then, my adult love of tapas has seeds in my childhood. Tapas obliterates that single most stressful moment of a night out: ordering. You see your waiter approaching and a quiet panic creeps in. Damn it. Here they come. And I haven’t even gotten through the Seafood section. Now I will have to send them away and ask for another minute. Or worse yet, I will be that girl that holds up the entire group, because I am the only one who has not decided on one single dish that is supposed to satisfy all my cravings for the evening. Impossible.
Oh, how tapas saves the day! Now, I can order two or three (read: eight or nine) petite plates and have a true culinary safari. When a couple friends were visiting from out of town, I seized the opportunity to investigate Malaga Tapas & Bar at their new home on Second Street. True to Austin form, Malaga has created an excellent outdoor patio for dining, in addition to the very European interior.
Malaga managed to feel chic but not smug, established but not old, relaxed but not lazy. As one might expect, the wine list favors Spain and South America, but still rounds out with the likes of France, Italy, Napa and Australia. They also offer a nice selection of flights, yet another favor for the indecisive.
Unfortunately, I could not convince my visiting guests that tapas really are quite small and best to order several for everyone to share. Imagine their confusion when the Lomo a la Plancha (marinated beef tenderloin) was not an eight ounce filet, but a few delicate strips with roasted garlic aioli. Told you so.
Nonetheless, we all enjoyed the aguacates fritos (fried avocados), fried goat cheese, spinach empanadas and tortilla Catalana. I loved that everything was delicate in size and flavor; just right for passing plates around the table. Everyone was able to get a sampling of all the different tastes, without feeling like you needed to unbutton your pants at the end (Christmas dinner, anyone?). Call me predictable, but my favorite had to be the tortilla Catalana. This is the simple, traditional Spanish tortilla baked with potatoes, onions, eggs and piquillo peppers. At Malaga, it is finished off with a drizzle of garlic aioli, Romesco sauce and Iberico cheese.
A close second was the equally vegetarian friendly empanadas Salamanca, stuffed with spinach, Mahon cheese, garlic, shallots and mushrooms. Sidled up to spicy tomato sauce and grilled peppers, they were so good we ordered up another plate of the miniature turnovers.
Near the end of our meal, Chef (and owner) Alejandro Duran stopped by the table. Of course he visits every table, but I would be lying if I said it did not make us feel a teensy bit special. He was like the wild-haired Madrid-born cousin of ol’ Saint Nick. Jovial and spirited in his chef coat, he bestowed upon us his great gifts of cookery. The best part? At Malaga, no one has to wake up before six o’clock to enjoy the thrill of something good.
by Phyllis Gasper
[Photos: Jacqui Zhou and Ben Bennett]
