157 East Houston Street
Manhattan, New York, NY 10002
(212) 473-9900
www.macondonyc.com
In a neighborhood filled with small-plate options (and just about every other option, too), Macondo stands out as an innovative, upbeat East Village place to grab tasty cocktails and assertive bites in a retro-Island ambiance complete with bamboo accents and hammocks suspended from the ceiling. Situated on Houston between Allen and Eldridge, Macondo serves ‘Latin street food,’ bringing specialties from various countries together to form a fun menu and innovative cocktail list – a perfect spot for a first date, gossip session or group dinner.
Named for the fictional Colombian village serving as the setting for Gabriel Garcia Marquez’ One Hundred Years of Solitude the place marries kitsch, whimsy, and modernity in a way that, I think, would make the Buendia family proud. There’s something about the clear bubble-like hanging light fixtures, vinyl banquettes, and bustling-yet-laid-back vibe that made me think of the sort of mid-century hideaways my grandparents used to talk about visiting on their trips to Cuba in the 1940s. It’s a welcoming spot that makes you crave some rum the second you walk through the door.
The menu is composed of sharable options, perfect for our group of six. Settling into one of the booths, we started out with some standard red sangria and a few of the more inventive quaffs – the ‘Fresca + Pisco’ (a sweet-savory combo of jalapenos, strawberries, lemongrass, lime and Pisco) and the Tamarindo + Tequila (spiked with ginger and pineapple) being the standouts. Even I, the pregnant stick-in-the-mud, was able to enjoy a mocktail, as all of the fruit-based drinks are available hooch-free.
As with many share-centric places, the food comes out as it’s cooked rather than in courses. We went for the gusto, ordering about half of the menu items, including perfect little almondegas (meatballs in a sweet guava-tinged sauce), shrimp and chorizo in a tomato sauce, served with some smashed plantains (we ordered two of these after the first went quickly), and perfectly-fried mushroom croquettes (rellenos) with figs, almonds, and a hint of earthy truffle.
The bocadillos were relatively substantial – hearty sandwich platters served with yucca fries that could serve as a light meal for anyone sharing-averse. The de berenjena is a great option for vegetarians, a mix of roasted veggies, goat cheese and tapenade pressed between two pieces of slightly sweet bread. The de chimichurri chic was another dish that got a second order, as we fought over the insanely braised shredded short rib, pepper, manchego, and onion-stuffed sandwich. Other standouts on the menu included the roasted pork mofongo, tuna bonita coca (flatbread), and bay scallop ceviche.
The only true disappointment was the standard patatas brava plate, which featured greasy, limp rounds of potato topped with a spicy mayo that tasted fine but was glopped on in an unappealingly thick layer.
Settling back with some café con leche and chocolate-dipped churros as my friends fought over the last spoonful of blue corn ice cream, I couldn’t help but wonder if the “real” Macondo of Marquez’s vision would have a place like this, a buzzing but laid-back spot where friends could gather and good food could be shared. Though I’m sure his version would be haunted by the friendly ghost of some long-passed busboy. I like to think it would.
by Tara Pierson Hoey
[Photos: 
