Anyone who has watched Action Bronson’s virtuoso food and travel web series, “Fuck, That’s Delicious,” knows he is a man of elephantine appetites, willing to try just about any cuisine that might titillate his taste buds and inspire him to utter the show’s title in reverence. On his major label debut album, Mr. Wonderful, the Queens rapper with the luxurious ginger beard and husky gut serves listeners the hip-hop equivalent of a tapas menu – cocky and sensitive personas, rock, R&B and jazz inspired beats and a handful of gimmicks – that delights at times and feels undercooked at others.

Bronson, born Arian Arslani, presents himself as a connoisseur of three nouns: food, women and drugs. Food is a no-brainer, women provide him pleasure and headaches, and generally find him irresistible despite his heft (think: a white, slightly more svelte Big Pun). Coke and weed are ever-present characters in his world too. Yet, for all his drug references on Mr. Wonderful’s 13 tracks, it’s clear Bronson, for clarity’s sake, should have used more Adderall in the studio while making this album. “I swear I’m focused,” he promises twice on “Only in America,” only to declare “Who knows what I’m saying anymore?” on the next track, “Galactic Love.”

That Mr. Wonderful rambles without a mission statement is forgivable, even expected, given Bronson’s past performance as a volume puncher with his words on mixtapes like the Blue Chips series. He is boisterous and braggadocious with a cartoonish ego larger than the borough that birthed him. Yet, he is also charming and likeable, with a seemingly endless supply of punchlines such as the ones that punctuate “The Rising”. Where Mr. Wonderful misses punches, however, is with song selections where Bronson doesn’t take the mic, such as the warbly, subway a capella of “Thug Love Story 2017 The Musical (Interlude)” or “The Passage (Live From Prague).”

Mr. Wonderful feels less like an album and more like a variety hour or a collage of Bronson’s aforementioned interests or moods. The organization is lacking. So is the pacing. That’s saying nothing of the unfortunate decision to have Bronson act, not once, but twice like he flubbed lines on the opening track, the Mark Ronson co-produced “Brand New Car”. I’m so ashamed,” Bronson concedes in a manner designed to make the charade more authentic. It doesn’t.

In spite of these missteps the album does offer its share of highlights. On “Actin’ Crazy”, Bronson explains that his antics on-stage and off are to support his mother. “All I do is eat oysters and speak six languages in three voices,” he absurdly declares over a dark, choppy beat reminiscent of MF Doom’s work. On “City Boy Blues” Bronson sings – yes, sings – of his woman’s desire to take his money without leaving her heart. The track, with its fuzzy guitar and horns, sounds vaguely like something The Roots and Cody Chestnutt might have collaborated on in the early 2000s. “Terry” offers ambience with its twinkly keys, not to mention a great line about wearing all-green minks. “Baby Blue,” featuring Chance the Rapper, features a transcendent horn outro that inspires joy that Chance’s nonchalant verse wishing bad things upon an ex does not.

As Action Bronson projects go, Mr. Wonderful lacks the special sauce that makes “Fuck, That’s Delicious” so great. It’s a mixed effort that benefits from Bronson’s outsized personality and gift for the absurd, but suffers from lack of continuity and curious track choices, to put it kindly. It’s hard for me to listen to this album and not think, “Fuck, That’s (Kinda) Disappointing.”

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